Liempo on Bamboo a la Marketman

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“Balamban Liempo” was the inspiration. Though I have never even seen or tasted it. But at a meeting of Cebu foodies last Thursday, one of the guests mentioned this Cebu delicacy and described it as a piece of liempo, with aromatics sandwiched within, wrapped in lemongrass or tanglad and roasted over a charcoal flame until fat was rendered, the meat was flavorful and the skin crisp and yummy. The whole table was extremely animated by this description, and took down notes to make sure and try this “Balamban Liempo” as soon as possible. Balamban is a town on the Western coast of Cebu, and it is here that this particular style of roasting liempo apparently originated. Early the next morning, I still couldn’t get the description out of my mind, and went hunting for the Lahug branch of Balamban Liempo but to no avail, unable to locate it. So I decided to hit the grocery and experiment for myself…

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I bought half of an entire liempo and rib section of a medium sized pig, the piece weighing some 4.5 kilos in total. I had the ribs removed and these were used in a pork rib sinigang along with assorted trimmings from the liempo. The large piece of belly meat and fat was sprinkled generously with rock salt, cracked black pepper, dried red chillies, some star anise, some garlic, a little bit of muscovado sugar. I drizzled this with some olive oil and several tablespoons of kikkoman soy sauce as well. I didn’t do it for this version, but would highly recommend you smash some lemongrass stalks and add them to the “inside” of the belly. Let this marinate for at least an hour, preferably longer if possible (stick it in fridge if you are marinating for an extended period).

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Carefully wrap the liempo (now some 3.5 kilos after being de-boned and trimmed) around a small bamboo pole and carefully tie it with abaca twine (which doesn’t burn easily) or other butcher twine. Make sure it is securely tied so the meat doesn’t slip around the pole. Rub the skin with some olive oil and season generously with salt and pepper.

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Next, we gathered some 30-35 stalks of lemongrass from our garden and surrounded the liempo and tied this all up with more lemongrass or tanglad. It is important to use fresh lemongrass as it is the most fragrant and still has some moisture. Smash or bruise the stalks to coax maximum aroma and flavor.

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Securing the lemongrass and tying knots was a bit of a pain on the fingers, as the “blades” of grass can cut you.

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Nevertheless, we managed to cover the entire liempo and it looks really neat in this photo…

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…but this is the hairy, unruly, less photogenic backside. :)

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Placed over hot coals and rotated slowly, it took only minutes for the incredible fragrance of lemongrass to waft through the air…

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The tanglad or lemongrass started to singe or burn (this photo after say 10 minutes over the coals… It’s possible the liempo was a little too close to the coals, but I think they would have burned eventually anyway…

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…but little prepared the crew for what looked like a case of spontaneous combustion, a huge ignition followed by flames that freaked them out. To be honest, I wasn’t sure if this was a sure sign of disaster, or if from the ashes the phoenix would rise…

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We clipped off the remaining lemongrass and brushed off the pork skin and continued rotating the liempo over the flames. The spectacular fireworks occurred at about 20-23 minutes into the cooking.

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The pallid skin soon started to crackle and render fat, and miraculously started to blister a la Zubuchon, even without the accupuncture treatment. Edges started to turn golden, then golden brown, and the juice and fat started to baste the pork and drip onto the coals, fueling mini fat flareups.

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Total roasting time was about 70-75 minutes, though I believe we took it off the flames about 15 minutes too soon. You really need to do a slow cook to ensure maximum tenderness and lots of flavor is absorbed or embedded in the meat…

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The resulting porchetta of sorts, or Liempo on Bamboo, was BRILLIANT! Incredibly crisp skin, almost as good as lechon. Nice juicy pieces of meat, perfumed with the aromatics and spices within. Yum.

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If you can’t make a lechon in your backyard in Vancouver, San Diego, Tampa or Tupelo, this is definitely a version that can be done on a Western barbecue or grill. Served with a variety of sawsawans, this was a BIG HIT. Less hassle than a lechon, all laman (meat no bones), and both crisp skin and tender meat within. Think of it as a “boneless lechon”.

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The concept of fully covering the liempo with lemongrass was extremely attractive, but to be honest, unless you put smashed lemongrass stalks inside the liempo, the flavor impact of the wrap was minimal. It did make for a wonderful show, however. Now I have to find me that Balamban liempo the next time I am in Cebu…

Some photos in this post taken by IJ, others by AT.

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Marketman

Marketman is a well-traveled management consultant who loves buying, cooking and eating good food. Read more »

84 Responses

  4. Yum! Sorry, out of topic,MM, but I’m going to Singapore for the first time next month. I tried to search in the archives if you had written anything on it to serve as guide, but except for the fact that you and Mrs. MM lived there for years, can’t seem to fin anything on it. Can anybody help me pls? Places to eat, things to see and do, nothing too expensive please. Thanks!

  5. Wow!!! What a brilliant way to do liempo! And I was wondering what to do with three pieces of thick bamboo taken from the garden…

  7. Our family of what my friends now refer to as “porketarians” will definitely love this! Local porchetta – yum, yum …

  9. aww… looks yummy. will pm you exact location by tues. it’s along the road, but not so visible. xoxo

  10. I am from Cebu, albeit left eons ago… but never heard of this before… I must check this out next time I am back in the home country/ island. Thank you for posting.

  12. Wow!looks so yummy!and with all that lemograss wrapped around, cannt help but imagine Miss Porky Pig in Hawaiian grass skirts! :)

  13. another formidable pork entry. you never fail to impress me with your brilliant ideas. by the way, i notice the aquino-roxas bracelet! very subtle campaign.

  15. whoa! i knew you were up to something good – zubu porchetta! that’s definitely a must-try soon!

  16. Their Lahug branch is just across University of Southern Philippines. Near JY Square. You can even have it delivered. :)

  17. hi MM, off-topic, but would just like to share this tidbit. hubby got back yesterday from butuan city bringing a strange, delicious suman called “palagsing”. it’s wonderfully chewy and shot through with tender buco shreds. this led me to find out more about it. apparently, it’s made of nipa flour (or landang flour, i suppose). saw your March 2007 post about landang, and i think this could be it. wonder if palagsing is exclusive to the Agusan-Surigao area?

  20. healthier version of crispy pata (if there is ever one!) since it’s grilled not fried. but still looks as crispy and tasty!

  21. Balamban Liempo is just across the first gate of the University of Southern Philippines, if you’re coming from Waterfront Hotel.

  23. Kelleher (French Laundry) has a “porky” restaurant in Napa and they are always on the lookout for pork preparations, They do a superb Cuban lechon. Let’s see how long before they pick up on this one!
    Playing with liempo is certainly one of my fave pastimes. In fact, I think I’ll call Cindy.

  27. MM texted me this pm to check his post, and only now had the time. WOW MM, totally awesome! The last 3 pictures really says it all. I can’t wait to try this zubu-liempo. So, when MM, when?

    MM, Balamban Liempo has a branch in Capitol area, which is just a couple of blocks from your place. I just hope their “secret ingredient” is not MSG!

  28. hmmm, nice diet food MM! please give some clues on how much weight you lost. sorry, i’m such a spoiler of this succulent post. its just that i’m super inggit.

  31. I´ll take this anytime over porchetta.

    Sillilolo, is it liempo you like playing with or is it loin as in the biblical “fire in the loin.”

  32. You might try making a rectangular crater under the meat and placing a pan to catch the drippings and therby reducing the occurrance of flare ups. The drippings would make good sauce. Surround the pan with the live coals and that heat will cook the meat slowly.

  34. wow! i’d like to try this style of grilling liempo but we don’t have bamboo poles here so i have this idea of using sugar canes. i saw these canes in some vietnamese groceries and lemon grass is also available. I’m hopeful it will work. kasama na ang dessert after consuming the pork. thanks for the inspiration, MM.

  35. MM wow napaka-resourceful mo and generously kind to share this wonderful recipe. long live MM.

  36. MM, what if i put half of the lemongrass inside the liempo and lessen the chili. baka hindi makakain ang bata sa dami ng sili ? will it taste the same ? i will try it this coming friday at the park and for sure lots of people will come and see what the hell i am doing. this is a muslim country, but who cares they sell it in their supermarkets.

  37. Looking at their website, they have posted a challenge: “Tastier than lechon”. We look forward to your comments, when you can compare it with zabuchon.

  44. Hi MM, i am drooling… that looks so good and having lived in cebu for close to 10 years i never even got to try that balamban liempo… now back living in manila just dreaming of cebu… the lechon there…now comes this hmmm…:(

    Havent lurked for awhile… off-topic you planning to have another eyeball soon? Was one of your guests in the lechon eb in cebu…even have your photo w/ me + your autograph-signed souvenir..:)

  45. OMG.my hubby would love this..but the pork meat that we have here is not good..may ibang lasa..the pig may not be young..hayyy..

  47. This will definitely a must try to do and of course as with any recipe with a bit of tweaking!!!! Looking forward for your more post and experiment on this MM….Yummmy !!!!

  51. BRILLIANT I say! BRILLIANT!

    The skin an douter portion is cooked perfectly. Looks crunchy!

    MM I was wondering it the inside isnt undercooked.

    I literally was drooling reading your post. Many Thanks

  53. MM,

    Don’t bother with the Metro Cebu liempo places that claim to have Balamban Liempo (like the liempo place mentioned across USP). I actually go to Balamban for the liempo and it does taste better there. The ones in Cebu City are just riding on the name – if it doesn’t taste like the real thing then you shouldn’t call it that. The closest you can get to real Balamban liempo is Toledo. The liempo in Kusina ni Nasing in V. Rama is also better than the fake “Balamban Liempo” style places.

    Sorry but I love my food.

  55. Still waiting for the real authentic balamban liempo ala Marketman …….I’m also curious to know about it since this is the first time I heard about it.

  56. MM,

    It’s in front of the church. Near an open plaza. It’s a small stall on the right side if you’re facing the sea. I’m sure locals can point you in the right direction. Several of my friends have gone there in a liempo food trip. I took a leave just to try the liempo there the first time. I think it’s the freshness of the ingredients more than anything else.

    Yes, I have a fever and the only cure is more liempo.

  59. MM – you are soooo evil! (^_^) i was drooling just looking at those pictures… i will be going home at the end of the month and will try this..

    To those who will try or have tried cooking this in a turbo, please let me/us know how it turned out… Salamat..

  60. Hi MM, All of the current commercial lechon liempo/manok that are available now use a stainless steel skewers. The way you do it using a wrap around on a bamboo was your own innovation or is this the way the original balamban liempo was cooked. If it is your own innovation it’s genius and worth another patent ;).

    Also when I search the so called commercial Balamban liempo stall looks like they are using an electric oven and that put me off :).

    Just a suggestion, to enable a slow cook method without burning the lemongrass is to wrap your belly with a foil for an hour or two. Another way instead of lemongrass is a banana leaf with some herbs then wrap a foil on top of it. Remove the foil once you are ready to crisp the skin.

  61. Hi, Mr.M…my first time here but will save this link on my desktop as I enjoy the contents of your website…

    U just gave me a delightful idea on how to enjoy liempo. I know exactly what i wanna do when I get home this April. Tenk yu ha…keep on rockin’ with ur fascinating journey with food

  62. I’ve been following your blogs for sometime now and this is the first time i’ll post.

    Looking at the picture sure made me hungry. :) where is this sold in Cebu City? I’ll make sure to ask my Tatay to drop by and buy some when I get home. Balamban is too far away just to get a taste of this delicacy.

  65. Hey MM – that really looks similar to Rolli Roti’s Porchetta at the SF Ferry Building farmer’s market!

  66. Hi MM, this is jojo, owner of Balamban Liempo, i am a big fan! i’m honored to know you were looking for my store. Our branch in Lahug is in front of the University of the southern Phil. When you are in Cebu, do drop by or call me 0928-5022605. I would love to let you try our liempo. We also have branches in Mabolo, Capitol and Talamban. Aside from the liempo, you can try our lechon manok, lechon sisig, and pochero ( it’s cebu style bulalo).

    By the way, we are not “fake”. We are from balamban as well, and we are not riding on anybody’s name. I guess the only way to find out is to taste for yourself both products and make your own decision, so may the best liempo WIN!!!

    Do visit this site for more details and see you in CEBU!

    https://www.balambanliempo.multiply.com

  67. My wife cooked this for my birthday party last night, with the help of my brother in law. We put tanglad also inside the liempo. Absolutely delicious. Better than an Lechon Baboy that I’ve ever eaten. We will certainly be cooking this again!

  68. jojo,

    I did not imply that you were not from Balamban. What I was referring to the quality of the liempo that your store makes. No offense meant but I did try your liempo and it does not compare favorably with the liempo I ate in Balamban (the liempo in Kusina ni Nasing in V. Rama is closest to the real Balamban liempo). This is also the opinion of several of my pork loving friends.

    I last time I ate at your “Balamban Liempo” stall in Lahug was last december so maybe you have improved your recipe between then and now (it was dry and hard to chew). I’ll give your store a try again soon to check if it’s gotten better.

    For my money, the original Balamban liempo in Balamban (not in Cebu City) is still the best in Cebu.I would encourage people who read this blog to try and compare the different liempo stalls and make up their own minds. Don’t believe everything an economist (moi!) tells you.

    Tugashaligi

  71. WOW! We here in Texoma, USA love our BBQ pork ribs…they are cooked similar to Balamban Liempo…I think that the liempo recipe in Cebu did come straight from heaven…I havent tasted the liempo that is from Balamban, but why would I need to, when the Balamban Liempo of Cebu is the unequivical , hands down, thumbs up winner of any contest….It is the knockout over all others….the Manny Pacquiao of all liempos….It is the Destroyer of my will power to stay on a diet…

  72. what is competition tugashaligi? whats the name of the liempo store in Balamban? Is it Balamban Liempo too?

  73. I did try the way MM cook the liempo this weekend but I added smashed lemon grass, garlic, onion springs, salt, vinegar, soya sauce and pepper inside the liempo before I wrapped it into a bamboo pole. The flavor is really realy nice and in fact my singaporean visitor commented that it taste very good with a smoke flavor. Although I didn’t manage to attain the crispy skin that you have on your photo as I kept brushing it with a buko juice which I believe because of sugar content of the buko juice it makes the skin chewy like a stew but the flavor of the skin is nice also. I will try again this time using your zubuchon style pricking it without brushing buko juice. Will probably need to dry the skin also before grilling it on charcoal.

  74. Marjorie,

    There are several liempo stores here in Cebu city. Some are good (like the aforementioned Kusina ni Nasinga) and some don’t make the grade as usual for these types of food. Some of the best food come from stalls/carenderias that specialize in a few dishes. For example for sisig, one of the best I was in Aysee’s the one near Ultra in pasig : (

    I actually forgot the name of the stall in Balamban but I do remember it’s in front of the church and beside the gym. But you can get similar tasting liempo in Toledo. I know it’s far but I’m sure the quality of cebu city liempo will improve specially with lots of people clamoring for it.

  75. This is John Kehrli, the founder of Super Cebu and after recommendation from a few of my friends, I decided to go and try “Balamban Liempo” for myself. Honestly, I am not a big fan of Liempo but when I tasted “Balamban Liempo” I am an instant fan. I heard that they are expanding rapidly but I tend to order from the location in Mabolo, because they deliver. I decided to host a party and have “Balamban Liempo” and serve it to more of my friends and see what they thought, needless to say, everyone absolutely loved the food. As you might have guessed, I am an American and I can say that this small little “food stand liempo” crosses the international line. I am a film critic in the United States but I am thinking about become a food critic after this review (just kidding of course). For the record, this is not a paid advertisement (LOL), just written by an absolute huge fan of the food. With all sincerity, I am starting to like the more traditional Filipino foods now. Whether you are a local Cebuano, an expat living here or just here visting from around the Philippines, you have got to try “Liempo”. I am not sure where the other locations are at, but you can go to the location in Mabolo. God Bless and great taste!

  76. Balamban Liempo…

    I can still remember yesterday…

    The smell of your tasty crispy pork skin lingers on me until today…..

    Chicken roasted to perfection… What a fantastic combination…

    Dip them in the traditional vinegar concoction!! soo yummy!!!!! when i get back to my hometown, i can not wait to taste u again….

    =fanatic cousin in BKK..=)

  78. OMG!!! Puso nalang ang kuwang. Can you please let me know what is Liempo in English? I finally found a good butcher here in SF and need to make sure I ask for the right thing. Also for the bamboo, can we use those bamboo poles that we can buy at the florists? Sorry for the ignorant questions, but I know nothing about cooking….just eating! =)

  79. Hi MD

    Liempo is simply another word for pork belly.

    Unfortunately wa puso diha sa SF. Hope you try balamban liempo when you are in CEBU!

  81. Hi Sir MM nice site/blog!

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    To read more about Balamban Liempo kindly click on the the link below! Thanks!

    https://www.istorya.net/forums/food-and-dining/223990-balamban-liempo-tastier-than-lechon.html

  82. WOW! ANG SARRRAPPP…..NAMAN YAN! NAGUTOM TULOY AKO…MASARAP SIGURO YAN WITH TAMA GARLIC RICE AT ATSARA…OO NGA NAPAPANSIN KO RIN YONG BRACELET MO AQUINO N ROXAS BA YAN? OKEY YAN! MGA TOTOONG TAO YAN SILA..WALANG SUHOL..KUNG ANO ANONG PANG PA PREMYO KUNO PINA MIGAY ANG ENDING DITO PARANG ARROYO STYLE DIN YAN( PAKANA),,,SORRY …NAPAHABA ATA…SORRY GUYS.. BASTA AKO KA KAIN NA LANG AKO NG MASARAP NA LIEMPO!!!

  83. Thanks! I actually made this yesterday. I had to settle for piecies of liempo and not the whole 1 piece. But everything all went well, the abacca twine was a big help.
    YUMMY!

  84. Comments on this post have been closed. Attempts to “promote” one brand of commercial liempo over another are not taken lightly on this blog. Ballot or comment stuffing is not appreciated. I would ask readers to seek their preferred supplier of this dish, but as the dish described above is homemade, try that first before you compare it to a commercial version. Thanks.

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